Kitchen Planning Guide
17/01/12 15:54
So, you’re ready to renovate your kitchen! Consider these guidelines that we use to plan an efficient working space.
Spacing: You should allow at least 42 inches and no more than 48 inches between cabinets for the work aisle. (Non-work aisles or walkways can be 36 inches.) The distance traveled within a work triangle (range, refrigerator, sink) should be less than 26 feet with no single leg less than four feet or more than nine feet. You should keep pathways between doors outside of the work triangle if at all possible.
Landing Areas: You need to allow for a clear landing space next to the sink and appliances. For the refrigerator, allow a 15-inch landing area on the handle side (or on a counter no more than 48 inches across from the frig). For the cooktop/range, provide a landing area on each side; 12 inches on one side and 15 inches on the other. For the oven(s), provide a 15-inch landing area next to or above the oven (or on a counter no more than 48 inches across from the oven). For the sink, allow a 24-inch landing area on one side and 18 inches on the other side.
Locations: It works best to locate the sink & dishwasher near the cabinet where dishes/glasses will be stored, with the dishwasher within 36 inches of the sink. (Allow 21 inches of standing space next to the dishwasher if cabinets are at a right angle to the dishwasher.) You should include a 36-inch wide primary preparation/work area next to or across from the sink.
Lighting: It’s a good idea to plan for multiple sources of light; recessed or track lighting for the whole room, under-cabinet lights for work areas, and decorative pendant. Rope lighting above the cabinets can make an interesting accent lighting. Use dimmer switches to allow you to vary the lighting levels.
Spacing: You should allow at least 42 inches and no more than 48 inches between cabinets for the work aisle. (Non-work aisles or walkways can be 36 inches.) The distance traveled within a work triangle (range, refrigerator, sink) should be less than 26 feet with no single leg less than four feet or more than nine feet. You should keep pathways between doors outside of the work triangle if at all possible.
Landing Areas: You need to allow for a clear landing space next to the sink and appliances. For the refrigerator, allow a 15-inch landing area on the handle side (or on a counter no more than 48 inches across from the frig). For the cooktop/range, provide a landing area on each side; 12 inches on one side and 15 inches on the other. For the oven(s), provide a 15-inch landing area next to or above the oven (or on a counter no more than 48 inches across from the oven). For the sink, allow a 24-inch landing area on one side and 18 inches on the other side.
Locations: It works best to locate the sink & dishwasher near the cabinet where dishes/glasses will be stored, with the dishwasher within 36 inches of the sink. (Allow 21 inches of standing space next to the dishwasher if cabinets are at a right angle to the dishwasher.) You should include a 36-inch wide primary preparation/work area next to or across from the sink.
Lighting: It’s a good idea to plan for multiple sources of light; recessed or track lighting for the whole room, under-cabinet lights for work areas, and decorative pendant. Rope lighting above the cabinets can make an interesting accent lighting. Use dimmer switches to allow you to vary the lighting levels.
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Use the Space You Have
03/01/12 14:15
So you wish your home was laid out better, with traffic flowing more efficiently from one space to another! You think designing a new addition would solve your flow problems. WAIT... maybe you just need to look at the space you have and decide if you can make it work better. How? Try using these three rules: develop a plan, de-clutter, be ruthless.
Develop a plan. Decide what/where the problem is. Find pictures from books and magazines as a “catalog” of ideas for your “new” space. Include photos of your own furniture, rugs, objects, art, etc. (Don’t forget things you have in other rooms that you might use in this space.) Make a drawing of the traffic flow. Look at ways you might redirect the traffic flow. [Something as simple as changing the location of a rug or adding a potted plant might be all it takes to encourage traveling a different path through a room.]
De-clutter. Remove everything from your space. (Rent a POD to store stuff if necessary.) Paint your space a neutral color. Reintroduce your stuff and new items into the space, redirecting traffic according to your plan. Add a few interesting details and accent. Don’t reclutter!
Be ruthless. Repeat: be ruthless! Don’t use something just because you own it. Relocate it to another room, sell it, give it away or toss it if it doesn’t work with your new plan.
Still not sure how to make your space work? Give ADM a call and we can help you visualize changes to traffic flow and de-clutter your room(s).
Develop a plan. Decide what/where the problem is. Find pictures from books and magazines as a “catalog” of ideas for your “new” space. Include photos of your own furniture, rugs, objects, art, etc. (Don’t forget things you have in other rooms that you might use in this space.) Make a drawing of the traffic flow. Look at ways you might redirect the traffic flow. [Something as simple as changing the location of a rug or adding a potted plant might be all it takes to encourage traveling a different path through a room.]
De-clutter. Remove everything from your space. (Rent a POD to store stuff if necessary.) Paint your space a neutral color. Reintroduce your stuff and new items into the space, redirecting traffic according to your plan. Add a few interesting details and accent. Don’t reclutter!
Be ruthless. Repeat: be ruthless! Don’t use something just because you own it. Relocate it to another room, sell it, give it away or toss it if it doesn’t work with your new plan.
Still not sure how to make your space work? Give ADM a call and we can help you visualize changes to traffic flow and de-clutter your room(s).
Architect = Added Cost?
31/12/11 13:15
The thought often bouncing around in the head of folks that haven’t used an architect to help build their dreams is “won’t using an architect add to the cost of my construction?” My answer to that question is, “Probably not.”
“Buying” an addition is the same as buying a washing machine. You could go to an appliance store (for instance, Bernie’s) and buy the first one you see. Did you spend too much?
Your neighbors went to the GE web site and scrolled through the information on available models and decided exactly what functions they wanted on a washing machine. Then they went to Consumer Reports to find out who manufactures machines with those functions, how well the machines performed and the probably cost of each machine. Then they called Bernie’s, Sears, Lowes to find out who had the best price. Your neighbors established the “market value” for the machine that had the functions they wanted thereby insuring that they got the best price.
What your neighbors did was to load up on information to get the best price. An architect does this for you. We define your project to the point that we can assure you exact result. We then go out and get bids for exactly the same work. This process establishes the “market value” of your project.
Don’t just go to a remodeler and say “I want to add a Family Room, give me a price.” First, how do you know you will get what you want and second, how do you know that you got a fair price? You could go to three builders and say “I want to add a Family Room, give me a price.” You could get three prices on three very different ideas of what you want. One could include only the exterior walls, one could include built-ins, and one might be energy-efficient.
Anyway, back to the question, “Won’t using an architect add to the cost of my construction?” When we get three bids (from builders we have worked with before) on a complete and well-defined set of plans, the bids may vary as much as 25%. For instance, the bids on a project that we predict to cost $100,000 might be between $80,000 to $120,000. If, instead of using an architect, you took the appliance-store approach and you agree to have the work done for $120,000, wouldn’t you have spent $40,000 more than you needed to?
If you had chosen to use us to help design and get good bids for your work, you would have invested about $12,000 in our services. So $40,000 less $12,000 is $28,000, right? So didn’t we save you $28,000?
“Buying” an addition is the same as buying a washing machine. You could go to an appliance store (for instance, Bernie’s) and buy the first one you see. Did you spend too much?
Your neighbors went to the GE web site and scrolled through the information on available models and decided exactly what functions they wanted on a washing machine. Then they went to Consumer Reports to find out who manufactures machines with those functions, how well the machines performed and the probably cost of each machine. Then they called Bernie’s, Sears, Lowes to find out who had the best price. Your neighbors established the “market value” for the machine that had the functions they wanted thereby insuring that they got the best price.
What your neighbors did was to load up on information to get the best price. An architect does this for you. We define your project to the point that we can assure you exact result. We then go out and get bids for exactly the same work. This process establishes the “market value” of your project.
Don’t just go to a remodeler and say “I want to add a Family Room, give me a price.” First, how do you know you will get what you want and second, how do you know that you got a fair price? You could go to three builders and say “I want to add a Family Room, give me a price.” You could get three prices on three very different ideas of what you want. One could include only the exterior walls, one could include built-ins, and one might be energy-efficient.
Anyway, back to the question, “Won’t using an architect add to the cost of my construction?” When we get three bids (from builders we have worked with before) on a complete and well-defined set of plans, the bids may vary as much as 25%. For instance, the bids on a project that we predict to cost $100,000 might be between $80,000 to $120,000. If, instead of using an architect, you took the appliance-store approach and you agree to have the work done for $120,000, wouldn’t you have spent $40,000 more than you needed to?
If you had chosen to use us to help design and get good bids for your work, you would have invested about $12,000 in our services. So $40,000 less $12,000 is $28,000, right? So didn’t we save you $28,000?
What do architects do? Part 2
24/12/11 10:04
A few architects, including our company, will estimate the cost of your work at every step; so that, at the first viewing of several plans, you have an idea of the cost of constructing each of the solutions. That means that you can balance aesthetic decisions and cost. This estimate is refined in the design development and blueprint stages to keep your project in line with your cost objectives.
Building is a long process that is often messy and disruptive (particularly if you're living in your house while it's under construction!). Your architect represents you, not the builder. Your architect looks out for your interests, giving you several solutions, and then helping you to get the best price through competitive bidding. And your architect is there to make sure that what is built matches the plans. Your architect smoothes the process and makes you a "happy camper"!
Building is a long process that is often messy and disruptive (particularly if you're living in your house while it's under construction!). Your architect represents you, not the builder. Your architect looks out for your interests, giving you several solutions, and then helping you to get the best price through competitive bidding. And your architect is there to make sure that what is built matches the plans. Your architect smoothes the process and makes you a "happy camper"!
What do architects do? Part 1
10/12/11 14:26
What architects really do is to manage achieving their client’s functional, aesthetic and cost objectives using graphic communications. So the questions then are what the heck is a functional objective? An aesthetic objective? For you a functional objective might overcome the lousy layout of your existing kitchen. One of your aesthetic objectives could be enhancing what your house looks like from the street, you know, “the curb appeal”. And you already know what your cost objective is: not to overspend for what you are getting. Other cost objectives might be to not exceed the overall value of houses in your neighborhood, or the available amount of a home equity loan, savings account or your inheritance from Grandma.
So what are graphic communications tools? Initially they are space plans showing how your kitchen could be laid out better or exterior illustrations that show solutions to enhance your home’s curb appeal. Once one of the solutions is chosen, it is transformed into larger design development drawings that help to make most of your aesthetic decisions. Those are ultimately transformed into “blueprints” that are used to obtain competitive builder bids, instruct the selected builder in what is to be built and assures the local Building Official that the work will be done according to code.
So what are graphic communications tools? Initially they are space plans showing how your kitchen could be laid out better or exterior illustrations that show solutions to enhance your home’s curb appeal. Once one of the solutions is chosen, it is transformed into larger design development drawings that help to make most of your aesthetic decisions. Those are ultimately transformed into “blueprints” that are used to obtain competitive builder bids, instruct the selected builder in what is to be built and assures the local Building Official that the work will be done according to code.
